Pandemic Freedom: Surfing!
“How are you doing ?” is by far the question of the year and the one my friend, Brenda, asks often in a serious voice. She has had a combination of cabin fever and acute uncertainty. Honestly, I don’t blame her. I have sincere bouts of the latter, but cabin fever?? – hmmmm, not really. I wouldn't rub it in her face, but I’ve been well. My secret, of course, is surfing. Since early quarantine, I’ve been able to head to the beach with my surfboard and trade in mind-numbing electronics with salty cold water and the chance to stand on top of a wave and ride it all the way in! Ah, such bliss. While in the water, whatever is going on in the rest of the world is immaterial and it will be there when I get out. Strange times and strange outcomes: Towns opened up weirdly, as spring became summer. In one case, there were lifeguards on the beach, surfers and swimmers in the water, but the access to the beach was fenced off! I can only imagine the town-hall Zoom conversation that ended wi