Haven Wave

The first time out with my coach, Robbie Nelson, we were catching 2-to-3-foot waves in a place called “The Haven.” This place is known for offering the perfectly formed wave when the swell hits a certain size. We were there for smaller waves, but there was one wave that made the height requirement. Robbie looked at it with open-mouthed awe and stated, “Now, that’s a HAVEN WAVE.”

 

For me it was a water wall of  terror, but I remember thinking, “What would it be like to surf well enough to really ride one of those waves?” The distance between my surfing and the skill required to play on one of those waves was, as they say in surfing circles, EPIC! 

 

I had a long, easy-to-paddle board named Queen Mary, a wetsuit, excitement, and commitment. I was committed to competing some day, proving to myself and anyone who noticed that age is no excuse for not pursuing your goals. Given my ability at the time, competing was a “stretch goal.” If I could do one of those waves justice, I reasoned, I could have a respectable showing in a competition.  

 

Fast forward a year to October 2021 and I was in my first surf contest! I was, by far, the oldest in my age group (34 to 102 ½) and the only woman. I really had to represent! No pressure. 

… and there was no pressure. Melissa D’Anna, owner of Lucky Dog Surf Shop in Sea Bright, NJ, created a world of surfing fun that supported the Associated Humane Society of Tinton Falls. It was a light-hearted contest that rewarded costumes, dance moves, dismounts, and, oh yeah, surfing skills.

 

Our heat was last but finally the horn sounded and we entered the water, each of us getting enough rides to be scored. One of my wipeouts was commented on from the stage, which is good – a prize went to the best wipe out. 

I didn’t win that prize, or advance to finals, but after the contest, two men came up with serious, friendly faces and asked me when I started surfing. They were both 60 and, that day, said they would finally take up surfing. This is why I entered! Mission accomplished!

 

Later that week, I went out with Robbie, to catch post-hurricane waves (like our original Haven Wave). I don’t know when I got better or what the progression was, but there I was, screaming down an overhead wave like the one in the Haven that day! My performance on those waves is intermittent, but I’ve made considerable progress (Thanks, Robbie!).  

 

By the end of the session, a truly huge wave rose up from the ocean – over 16 feet! These monsters have the power to break boards and bones. F#ck! My heart was in my throat as I tried to close the distance between me and the power coming toward me. I knew I could make it for sure if I had Queen Mary, but I was on a short, performance board. As my arms were moving like a cartoon character through the water, I was trying to consider options if I didn’t make it. Should I turn around? Should I ditch the board? One thing for sure, I did not want to be in the impact zone - where that wave would bend over and smash the surface (and me!). 

I made it past the point of impact but didn’t quite clear the wave. I dove under the base of the wave letting go of my board for fear that the wave would pull the board and me up and over the wave. The board, attached to my leg line, pulled me into the chaos after the wave broke and towards shore. Just as I surfaced and retrieved my board, there was another big wave coming up behind it. I was far enough away that I could turtle roll (flip my board and myself upside down) and let the white, angry foam slide over me! 

 

Then the big waves were gone.

I found myself thinking, “What would it be like to really ride one of those waves?”